In September 2018, my partner and I took a road trip to the Black Hills of South Dakota. We toured dark windy caves, drove between rocky spires towering over steep mountain cliffs, and waited for meandering pronghorns to make their way across the road. We were yelled at by prairie dogs, found gigantic spiders and slept under the Milky Way to the sound of coyotes hunting. Perhaps the most inspiring sights were the bison. Casual and aloof, their dark woolly bodies dotted the landscape. Their presence hearkening back to a time long past before fear, prejudice and short-sighted selfishness found its way west.